Does it matter what kind of vitamin C you use? As we all know, Vitamin C is the best ingredient for making skin look brighter and getting rid of sun spots, especially as time passes. Because of this, learning about the powerhouse antioxidant is essential to any good skin care plan. Keep reading because this post has everything you need to understand the different kinds of vitamin C, what they do, and our recommendations for Korean skincare products with these ingredients! Let’s go on details of Vitaminc benefits for skin!

Vitamin C Benefits for Skin

Read also:

• Top 7 Natural Ingredients in Korean Skincare
• Best Active Ingredients for Skin Care in Your Routine
• 10 Korean Skincare Ingredients for Glowy Skin
• how to check skincare ingredients – Where to look for information?

Benefits of Vitamin C in Your Skincare Routine

Source: pharmaca.com

Now that we know this is an ingredient we all need to add to our skincare routines, we need to figure out how to choose from all the different kinds and forms of this ingredient. Some vitamin C products are more robust, work better than others, and some can make your skin sensitive. 

Choosing the correct form of vitamin C is essential because they vary in how well they work, how stable they are, and how well your skin can handle them. Also, their composition, concentration, ability to pass through the skin, and how well they work when used as an application on the skin.

What Vitamin C do for skin

• It helps the skin make collagen. As we age, the collagen components in our skin start to break down, and we make less of it. This means that fine lines, wrinkles, and sagging start to show up!
• Protects against UV damage and fixes it. Vitamin C is not a replacement for sunscreen. Still, it can protect against free radicals from UV exposure and repair some damage after spending time under the sun.
• By making less melanin, you can reduce hyperpigmentation and dullness. It works even better when mixed with other ingredients that make the skin look brighter.
• Anti-inflammatory. It stops the protein complex that starts the inflammatory process from working. This makes it great for healing acne and preventing dark spots after inflammation.
• It helps keep the skin’s barrier healthy. A study found that ceramide levels went up when vitamin C levels also went up.

Yes, vitamin C will pretty much fix all of your skin problems, and there are a lot of studies to back up this claim. Now the question is, what are the differences between the different kinds, and is one better?

Popular Types of Vitamin C in Korean Serums

Let’s quickly look at where vitamin C comes from. By the 18th century, sailors had figured out that eating a lot of citrus fruits helped keep them from getting scurvy (a disease that leads to bleeding gums and other nasty things – caused by Vit C deficiency). At that time, they didn’t know what was good about citrus fruits. Only in the 1930s did scientists figure out what Vitamin C is.

There are 8 types of Vitamin C:

• Ascorbic Acid (AA)
• Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate (AAP)
• Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP)
• Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (SAP)
• Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (TA)
• Ethyl Ascorbic Acid (EAA)
• Ascorbyl Glucoside (AG)
• Ascorbyl Palmitate (AP)

However, due to their effectiveness, AAP & AP are not popular components in Korean serums. Hence we will not analyze these two components.

Ascorbic Acid (AA)

Other name: L-ascorbic acid

This powerful antioxidant protects both the inside & outside of the body. If it is made correctly, its most important qualities are that it is bioavailable (the skin can use it) and permeable, which means it can get into the dermis and stimulate collagen production. Most of the time, esterified (derivative) forms of vitamin C need to be changed into ascorbic acid in the cells before they can help to make new collagen.

L-Ascorbic Acid can increase collagen production. When applied on the skin surface, it has been shown to slow down the enzyme substance that breaks down collagen and keeps it already there. It has been shown to prevent and heal sun damage to the skin.

What does Ascorbic Acid (AA) do?

• It’s an antioxidant, brightens skin, and acts as a buffer.
• Gets rid of brown spots and spots with color.
• Quickly oxidizes when exposed to light or air.
• Stable in water-based solutions only if the pH is less than 3.5 or if there is no water.
• Vitamins E and C work well together to protect against sun damage.
• Ferulic acid doubles the sun protection of Vitamins C and E and helps keep things stable.
• Potent Vitamin C serums might make sensitive skin tingle a little.
• It’s known for being very unstable. AA will break down when exposed to air, light, and heat.

Best Ascorbic Acid (AA) serums

A vitamin serum designed to improve the skin’s tone and texture. Because it contains vitamin C in its purest form and is free of parabens and other potentially irritant ingredients, it should cause less irritation to the user’s skin. Its formulation comprises ten essential elements for an immediate and powerful effect.

Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP)

Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, also known as MAP, is one of several derivatives being developed by the cosmetics industry to solve the challenge of working with pure vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid, or AA) is notoriously difficult to work with and extremely unstable. This is a more stable form of L-Ascorbic Acid, which, to become ascorbic acid, needs to be transformed by our skin. 

What does Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP) do? 

• Brightens the skin and protects against free radicals. 
• Still soluble in water but no longer needs to have a low pH to be effective.
• Although it does not absorb as well, it does transform into AA when it reaches the skin.
• It delivers all of the benefits that AA does. Still, because it is less powerful, it is frequently combined with other antioxidants and brightening ingredients to increase its effectiveness.

Best Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP) serum

This potent serum visibly brightens the skin surface and reduces the appearance of dark spots. It contains five different forms of vitamin C, guava, and tranexamic and ferulic acids. The result is skin that appears glowing and even-toned. Concerning the care of the skin: lack of firmness and elasticity, as well as the appearance of dark spots on the surface.

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (SAP)

Sodium ascorbyl phosphate, sometimes known as SAP, is a water-soluble form of vitamin C that occurs naturally in the environment. Since it is the most stable, vitamin C is the least susceptible to oxidation. Because it does not undergo oxidation despite being the most stable form of vitamin C, its utilization in the production of cosmetics is strongly encouraged.

Pure Ascorbic Acid has a lot of benefits. Still, the cosmetics industry has difficulty working with it because it is unstable. One possible solution is to develop stable derivatives, like SAP, that can be absorbed through the skin, which can then be converted to AA and continue to perform all of the miracles that AA is known to complete. SAP then plays as an antioxidant, a collagen booster, and a skin brightener.

What does Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (SAP) do?

• Prevent acne and acts as an antioxidant. 
• It has an antimicrobial effect, making it a potentially helpful treatment and preventative measure for acne.
• It removes free radicals caused by things like UV damage, pollution, etc., and protects the skin from the fine lines and early aging they are known to cause.
• Lightening the skin and removing hyperpigmentation, post-inflammatory pigmentation, and dark spots. 

Best Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate serum

This is an ideal serum for people who want to try out vitamin C serums for the first time or have sensitive skin but are still strong enough to help your skin. Ascorbic acid from grape and Yuja extracts and a small amount of sodium ascorbyl phosphate provide its vitamin C. Together with Centella Asiatica, the active ingredients help to calm and moisturize the skin while lightening or getting rid of dark spots.

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (TA)

Other names: Ascorbyl Isotetrapalmitate, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, and ATIP 

This is a form of vitamin C that stays stable for a long time and is similar to L-ascorbic acid. It is turned into ascorbic acid by enzymes in the skin. Because it dissolves in oil, it can eliminate the free radicals that damage skin lipids like ceramides and cholesterol. This is the primary way it works as an antioxidant. 

Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is different from pure vitamin C (ascorbic acid) because it dissolves in fat. So, it can get deeper into the skin and work with vitamin E (tocopherol), found naturally in the skin or skin care products, to target the skin’s support system in a different way than water-soluble ascorbic acid.

What does Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (TA) do?

• It dissolves in fat, is gentle, and stays put. It can also get into the deeper layers of skin at a rate three times better than AA.
• Also, it converts to AA and offers all three benefits: protection from free radicals, a boost to collagen production, and a brightening effect.
• It can help the body make more of its moisturizing factors, making it easier for the skin to absorb water from the body and stay well-hydrated.
• It has many benefits, such as protecting against sun damage, reducing skin pigmentation, and making more collagen and vitamin E. 
• Moreover, it works to fix the damage that UV light, visible light, and radiation do to free radicals that sunscreens can’t improve.
• Works and stays stable at a pH of 7. This makes it less likely that sensitive skin will react to it. Because of this, the TA is better for people who want the benefits of L-ascorbic acid for their skin.

Best Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (TA) serums 

This serum will make your skin glow and feel soft. Formulated with antioxidant-rich vitamins and minerals that help prevent damage from free radicals and keep the skin moist and in balance.

Ethyl Ascorbic Acid (EAA)

Other names: 3-O-ethyl ascorbate, also known as EAC

This is the most stable form of vitamin C, called L-ascorbic acid, with an ethyl group added to its third carbon. This ethyl derivative allows L-ascorbic acid (AA) to dissolve and stay stable in water and oil. But this isn’t enough for this ingredient to be used in skincare. Also, it should be good for the skin, which it is. This type of vitamin C is easily absorbed by the skin, has almost no side effects, and works the best.

It is thought that this derivative is better for skin care than ascorbyl glucoside, an offshoot of vitamin C. EAA is easily broken down into pure AA in the skin and works to bring back vitamin C and other nutrients that have been used up. Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is very effective and gives better overall benefits. It is stable in light, heat, water, and oil and dissolves well.

What does Ethyl Ascorbic Acid (EAA) do?

• Advantages also known as 3-O-ethyl-L-ascorbic acid, this form of vitamin C is very resistant to oxidation.
• The conversion rate to AA in the skin is 86%, significantly higher than the typical range of 50-60%.
• The brightening effects of EAA have been the subject of several studies, all of which have shown encouraging results. 
• As a depigmenting agent, ethyl ascorbic acid is better than vitamin C and other derivatives. It gets rid of dark spots and makes your skin look better overall. It also works on dark spots and erythema. 
• But ethyl ascorbic acid is also excellent for its work as an antioxidant. It keeps the vitamin C that the skin has lost and has antioxidant properties. This vitamin C derivative is a great free radical scavenger, skin brightener, and anti-aging agent. It also makes collagen better and makes more of it.

Best Ethyl Ascorbic Acid serum

A brightening and evening serum that is lightweight and concentrated with vitamin C to help brighten and even out your skin tone. It improves the skin’s complexion by making it more even and bright, giving your skin a healthy and youthful appearance.

Ascorbyl Glucoside (AG)

Ascorbyl glucoside is a more stable form of vitamin C made by putting glucose together with vitamin C. Glucose comes from a natural source of starch, like rice. Still, vitamin C is made in a lab. When it is completed correctly and absorbed by the skin, it breaks down into ascorbic acid, also called pure vitamin C. Once it’s been absorbed, it slowly breaks down into vitamin C. This is called a “reservoir effect” in the skin. 

This leads to benefits that last longer. Ascorbyl glucoside, sometimes called AA2G, is an antioxidant that works well with other replenishing and antioxidant ingredients to keep critical substances in the skin that make it look smoother, brighter, and younger. However, ascorbyl glucoside plus the B vitamin niacinamide is an excellent combination, and many skin care products use this combination. 

What does Ascorbyl Glucoside (AG) do?

• It dissolves in water and is more stable than AA.
• It absorbs well and can be turned into AA in our skin, giving us all of AA’s benefits: protection from free radicals, increased collagen production, and lightening hyperpigmentation.
• Usually used in concentrations between 2% and 5% when the goal is to brighten dull skin and make hyperpigmentation look less noticeable. 
• Works well with many other ingredients in cosmetics. Ascorbic acid needs a narrow pH range to work on the skin, but ascorbyl glucoside works between a pH of 5 and 8. The lower end of this range is thought to be better because it is closer to the normal pH range of skin.

Best Ascorbyl Glucoside (AG) serum

This product reduces fine lines, wrinkles, and uneven skin tone, promoting new skin cell production for smoother and more radiant new skin. Brighten skin, and reduce signs of aging with the lightweight vitamin C serum.

How to use Vitamin C skincare products?

Source: beminimalist.co

When combined with particular components, vitamin C can cause a reaction, and some variations of the antioxidant can be volatile. Here is how to properly use your vitamin C serum to get the most benefit possible from it.

• Step 1: Clean your face. Always begin with skin thoroughly cleansed so that your vitamin C serum does not interact with any lingering impurities.
• Step 2: Applying a toner or essence can help restore the skin’s pH balance. Stay away from toners that contain other acids and exfoliants.
• Step 3: Apply Vitamin C serums to the face, neck, and chest. You should look for a vitamin C serum containing vitamin E and ferulic acid, as these ingredients can potentially improve the L-ascorbic acid’s stability and efficacy.
• Step 4: Moisturize to create a protective barrier around the skin, but avoid creams containing retinol.

Tips for choosing Vitamin C skincare products

Source: kimgalloesthetics.com

• When choosing a vitamin C product, the formula is essential. For products made with AA (Ascorbic Acid), the pH needs to be less than 3.5. It should be combined with other antioxidants and healthy ingredients in all different forms.
• % is important! AA should be between 5-20% and remember that other derivatives must be turned into AA first. If you’re only getting a small amount of AA, you’re probably not getting any vitamin C benefits.
• AA is the best when it comes to how well it works. But you see if it is the best form for your skin type and how you take care of it. People with sensitive skin should try the gentler forms or start with a meager percentage of AA.
• SAP (Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate) and AP (Ascorbyl Palmitate) are good for oily and acne-prone skin because they kill bacteria and control sebum.
• If you want to make your skin tone brighter, look for EAA (Ethyl Ascorbic Acid), AG (Ascorbyl Glucoside), or MAP (Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate). These ingredients have been studied in terms of how they make skin more radiant.
• Always use sunscreen, mainly if you use AA, which can make your skin more sensitive.
• People used to believe that you should never use Vitamin C products with Retinoids. Using them simultaneously can be annoying, but using them at different times on the same day is OK. 
• Vitamin C is easily damaged by light and heat; if it isn’t stored correctly, it can quickly become oxidized. It should always be in a dark, opaque container and shouldn’t be exposed to air much. It should be kept somewhere dark, calm, and dry, away from light and heat, which can damage the product.

conclusion

Don’t just think about Vitamin C serums only.

The most common way to use Vitamin C for skin care is in the form of a serum. However, encapsulated or ampoule-based serums are becoming more popular because they protect the serum from light, air, and water, which can break it down.

Suppose you don’t want to add another step to your routine. In that case, you can also find Vitamin C in cleansers, moisturizers, and sunscreens. I hope our lists can help you find the most suitable Vitamin C serum for your skin.